Men

Metamodern Menswear Autumn/Winter 2020 Collection

Marking Salvatore Ferragamo’s return to Milan’s menswear schedule our Creative Director Paul Andrew embarks upon a playful exploration of the increasingly diverse and fluid and free nature of contemporary masculine identities.
Reading time 3 minutes

Paul Andrew explains: “In this first Ferragamo show of the new decade I want to use the language of fashion to ask: what does masculinity look like in 2020? To find answers we began with six ‘alpha’ male archetypes - Businessman, Biker, Racing Driver, Sailor, Soldier and Surfer. Then we fabricated their attire applying traditional Ferragamo artisanship guided by a determinedly non-conformist attitude. The agenda is to retain the aesthetic of uniform while subverting the once-rigid assumptions it enforced. To do this we use luxuriously tactile and fluid materials blend together our six masculine categories.

Clothes can define you: worn with thought and freedom they can also redefine you by serving as tools for experiment, evolution and transformation. This power held by clothing is something I see is much more relished in womenswear: today I wanted to create clothes and accessories for change in a very masculine context. A man today is not obliged to assume a single, set role: he can be a multitude, and he can change his worn identity any time he wishes. That’s a freedom we want to explore in the 2020s.”

 

Shoes

Following the Ferragamo ‘toe to head’ philosophy, this collection is based upon a foundation of footwear. These include bench made boots whose leather uppers are combined with the fabric of the garment worn above, featuring triple-stacked cuoio leather soles with square Gancini stud accessories. Large profile ‘biker’ and ‘army’ boots feature a high-flex V-lug (inspired by 1949 archival Ferragamo shoe) with a hybrid lace up/Chelsea boot upper.

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Accessories

The ‘Tornabuoni’ group evolves into a holdall and camera bag. Duffle bags in lightweight upholstery, hand-woven wide weave totes with matching belts and the new square Gancini stud buckle. Leather trimmed sunglasses.

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Clothes

This collection abounds with sensualised, elevated and rethought masculine ‘uniform’ classics from its six archetype genres: these are then mixed into outfits that defy categorisation - hero pieces for anti-heroes.

The opening look, for instance, features a peacoat (Sailor) in Scottish herringbone tweed (Businessman) with a double pleat at the front drawn from 1980’s Japanese beachwear and worn over double faced silk wool leggings (Surfer). Elsewhere a leather fire suit (Racing driver) is worn under a rib knit sweater (Sailor) and a surfer’s kangaroo pocketed vest. “Camouflage” print pieces (Military) in oxblood and olive are in fact palm prints (Surfer) which are worn against leather flight jacket (Soldier). Front-fold velcro-belt pants (Surfer), grain calfskin leathers (Biker) are also part of our mix-but-not-match multitude.

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The collection abounds with these swirling cocktails of reference and expression.

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