Fashion Weeks

MILAN FASHION WEEK SS19: Moschino

Unfinished business, courtesy of Jeremy Scott
Reading time 3 minutes

Had the day of the Moschino SS19 show already arrived? Uh oh ...
Today fashion moves so crazy and fast: pre-collections, cruise, capsules, collaborations ... in practice a succession of non-stop deliveries. And for the upcoming Spring / Summer 2019 the pace was so fast that Jeremy Scott has not even managed to complete the collection. Working like a soldier from dawn to dusk, Jeremy Scott tool very few breaks away from the style office. But the fashion calendar does not stop for anyone, and all of a sudden ... it's time for the show!
So, for this season Moschino presented a collection based on the work that Jeremy had time to put together: a finished story, but also a work in progress.
It all started in the Moschino atelier. Scott's sketches come to life. The elegant chemisier dresses, the twisted female tailoring, the blouses with bow on the neck and a complete arsenal of super-sexy and super-bourgeois daywear that literally brought Scott's sketches onto the catwalk. Of course, they were not really finished. Gestural urgency and the colorful features of Scott's drawings were interpreted in a color palette in which Sharpie meets Stabilo Boss. Even the tights were distinguished by the designer's scribbles.
It is clear where Scott imagined a dress created with a sophisticated polka dot fabric, or how a bow decorated with a bow had to be modeled in a "lady-ready-for-lunch" bouclé fabric, or like a skirt and a trench coat rainproof PVC should be totally coloured. But, hey, there was not time. So everything was delivered as Scott designed it.
Some decorations were a bit 'more accomplished: the Moschino print with dévoré hearts, the colored stripes, the approximate rendering of a classic print of Moschino chains, and that beautiful animal pattern that only partially covered the skirt of the dress that Scott said he was finishing coloring when the show started.
Was presenting clothes-sketches enough? In case it was not, Scott turned the rolls of cloth into incredibly bold evening dresses, carried on the catwalk with the pipes still attached. There were some almost finished lace looks, whose incompleteness was revealed only by the brush strokes on the fabric. In a moment of inspiration, Scott has transfigured modeling scissors - a tool usually used to sculpt fashion fabrics - into a fabulous evening look. He collected all the golden needles that fell on the atelier floor to join them in a sparkling dress, complete with a seamstress's thimble-shaped hat. The mannequins of his studio were taken separately and put together as tailor-made evening gowns, while the body suit was equipped with a wonderful tailor's tape measure.
On the catwalk the scrawls of Scott reappeared, this time made with beads and sequins embroidered on the classic evening silhouettes. And then, of course, the final look ... the wedding dress! So beautiful, with that impalpable balloon skirt and A generous veil .... but wait a minute, what were those giant butterflies that followed her along the catwalk? Was it reality or just fantasy?

 

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