Fashion Weeks

Stella McCartney and the Desire to Dance for Fall 2021

Inspired by McCartney A to Z Manifesto's D is for Desire, the winter 2021 collection reflects the Desire to leave the house. Mixing heritage, glamor, and sport to subvert the rules with a pinch of extravagance and luxury
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Stella McCartney's video show to unveil the Fall-Winter 2021 collection is a burst of energy. Shot by the duo Mert & Marcus in the corridors of the Tate Modern in London, it starts from a very simple concept: what do women want today? And starting right from the D which stands for "Desire" taken from his manifesto, the garments reflect the incredible desire we all have to go out, party, see an exhibition, meet friends, enjoy nature.

And this is precisely how Stella McCartney herself tells the collection. She herself, she tells us, can't wait to be able to return to normal soon and has transmitted this thought of hers within a collection designed to combine glamor and sport, the more daytime style to the more evening one made of sparkling sequins (made not of PVC). Not without forgetting the kitschy details like heart-shaped sunglasses, made of bio acetate and bio-lenses, relying on natural and renewable materials that reduce the need for petroleum-based plastics.

The colors are strong, as she says "bold", lots of sky blue, purple, electric blue, mint, magenta red, bee yellow, and grass green. An important reference is that of the London kids' clubs, to the looks of the outings of the people of the night, extravagant and irreverent with psychedelic graphics and motifs: tight-fitting silk turtlenecks, tracksuits, puffer jackets, and short dresses that let the skin glimpse.

And then there is also the sustainability of which Stella has been a pioneer since the birth of the brand. For Fall-Winter 2021, 77% of the collection is made with sustainable materials - including coats and tailored garments created using wool from farms selected for their excellent regulations on animal welfare and regenerative agricultural practices especially for what concerns organic cotton. Stella has also recently launched MYLO, a fiber obtained from the matrix of fungi, the mycelium, and which she patented in view of the launch of this collection to replace it with vegan leather. For the designer, in fact, sustainability rhymes with technology, and her team is constantly engaged in the search for less polluting alternative materials, with less waste and harmful emissions for the environment.

The play of maxi and mini volumes is a constant in the collection, the protagonists of this season are the cropped and oversized MA1 bomber jackets, with a touch of grunge-glam, made of regenerated nylon and ECONYL® in contrast with the tight-fitting ruffled dresses and in the peplum silhouette in stretch satin made of eco-friendly viscose and printed knitwear, present not only in the form of sweaters and turtlenecks but also flared skirts. The trousers are wide-flared, very 70's, presented in black, a checkered check variant (another real protagonist), in houndstooth or in 3D dotted regenerated wool. Crafted from the same T-shirt-like material, vibrant, wrap-around crêpe dresses with knots, cut-outs, and ribbed trims emphasize the energetic casual style. Reinforcing this aesthetic are the trousers with zipping and sporty hems, decorated with a kind of knee pads inspired by snowboard clothing. Ready for anything, the British designer seems to tell us, tired of being sedentary, she can't wait to find herself soon in a club basement to dance. In the name of freedom, art, the celebration of life.

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