Taking inspiration from the fate of Shakespeare’s heroine, this young Russian brand by Regina Turbina created a fully-digitalized capsule collection, featuring make-believe materials – dragonskin and quicksilver- like fabric.
Yet this is also a traditional collection in a sense, with classic-cut silhouettes and funky looks presented by featureless cyber-models.
Shimmering tracksuits and wide-cut jeans and shorts with tribal prints, glistening raincoats of metallic white and blue, heavy parkas and wide-brim floppy hats – everything in this capsule referred to major influence of the 90s. The coats and trousers were from the Yves Klein line, inspired by the famed French master’s palette of the deepest blue.
In terms of colors, psychedelic and tie-dye swirls were abundant, while metallic tones and textures clashed with furry chia-pet-like inserts on trousers and vests.
This is fashion for the future looking into the past, and exactly how we want the influences of the 90s to look ten years from now.
JAKE LIU (Australia)
Jake is one of the top emerging Australian designers (RMIT | Master of Fashion (Design)), a true master of multifunctional genderless garments. The entire mission of the brand is deconstruction of modern gender, beauty and fashion stereotypes. Most of his garments are transformable and can be easily turned into a carrier bag, a warm blanket or a t-shirt.
This new collection titled “No, Everlasting Eternity” started out in 2018, when Jake was experimenting with streetwear. “I was interested in working with bodies that do not conform to the popular beauty standards, to study the interaction of the body and the garment. Having tried many ways to show that in a collection, I stopped on the simple act of distorting the silhouette – such as putting a backpack underneath a shirt,” says Jake.
Combining such methods with traditional fabrics – wool and cashmere, silk and crepe de chine, Jake created a wonderfully genderless and futuristic collection, which manages not to lose its streetwear roots. Wooly tops and shimmery asymmetric trousers, along with silky kaftans and corsets gave the whole collection a flamboyant 18 th century courtier feel. Adam Ant and Derek Jarman would feel right at home with these looks – multifunctional, fun and irreverent. This was just what we needed to kick-start this futuristic event.
The Russian fashion house of Igor Chapurin is on its 22 nd year of existence, and has a storied history and an avid following in Russia. A vast portfolio of both haute couture and prêt-a-porter collection follows Igor’s house, along with dozens of limited-edition capsule and accessory collections. We were anxious to see what the designer would show us in such an unusual format, and he did not disappoint.
His newest creation was inspired by the Russian writer and Nobel prize winner Ivan Bunin’s work “Dark Avenues” (1946), which entangled fates and lives within a series of short stories. Coding the emotional feel of the book into the fabric for this collection was no easy task, but Chapurin handled it brilliantly, creating a perfect geometrical collection of dark hues and classic silhouetting. Heavy overcoats perfectly combined with light silken dresses underneath.
Tweed, velour, thin wool fabrics were coupled with many types of silk and linen. Faux leather and faux fur were also experimented with, as well as recycled cotton. In terms of colors, we saw dark blues and greys, as well as rust tones and bright flashes of fuchsia.
Using a top-heavy silhouette for this collection was an ingenious move, as the heavy oversized sleeves on the outerwear offset the sleek dresses underneath. A perfect Fall/Winter collection for a fan of brutalist architecture, this was a no-nonsense offering of a perfect balance of classic style and purpose from CHAPURIN. As he himself puts it, “This collection is all about intelligence and sustainability.”
Egor Golopolosov ‘Composition’
The first of our many 3D-art presentations was up next, this time from the popular Egor Golopolosov, whose
previous works could be seen in campaigns by Nike, Adidas, Disney, Coca-Cola, Coach, Esquire, and many
Egor’s art has always been inspired by the clash of street culture with art and fashion. His digital collage work
is well-suited both for commercial design and for an art gallery.
His new film is a series of wild images, all bringing to mind his influences – street art and graffiti, bucket hats
and hip-hop culture.
Florentina Leitner (Austria / Belgium)
Coming to us straight from the storied halls of Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts and London Fashion Week, Florentina created a thoroughly modern fairytale collection for this event, taking direct inspiration from the story of Cinderella.
Structured like a medieval tourney, this short film by Marnik A. Boekaerts showed us a fun and punky gathering at an ancient castle – every model wearing flowery dresses, shimmery sky-blue catsuits and zebra- print or houndstooth accessories, all to take part in a series of wild sporting events, from tennis in the grand hall and a zumba class in the ancient chambers to tug-of-war in the lush gardens.
The fun prints featured dalmatian spots and doll heads, flowers and geometric shapes, all set against gentle blue or porcelain white. Combined with typically British designs – petticoat dresses, wide-shoulder coats and wide, crimped skirts – this was a summery collection Vivienne Westwood would be proud of.
The new collection by Olga Ginzburg, who started OLA OLA in Saint-Petersburg in 2018, is a continuation of her genuine passion – merging fashion with art, and collaborating with Russian artists on her new creations.
Her new Spring/Summer 2020 offering is inspired by London, which comfortably combines classical architecture with contemporary high-rise buildings. A multi-layered collection of intricate prints and exquisite dresses, this new collection utilized a playful approach to textures (printed fabric, sewn or even sequined garments). Skirts were combined with trench coats and coats with long sleeve shirts, accessorized with wispy chiffon collars.
All in a summery and fresh palette – gentle blues, pinks and greys. The collection also sported AR- capabilities, with QR-codes available on the screen to allow viewers to try the garments on right away. Collection's looks were digitized by graphic designer Bayyat Akerov.
VANESA KRONGOLD (Argentina)
The designer, who founded her brand back in 2011, now finds her inspiration online and on the streets of her city, her witchy and magical collections always filled with a ton of swirling colors, fabrics, textures and collage work.
This new collection ‘Swamp and Psychedelia’ tells a story of love, rebirth, poetry and femininity – playing with textures and fabrics. In a Suspiria-like trance, the twin models, endowed with telekinetic and telepathic powers, are mysteriously intertwined, their light silken dresses flowing around their bodies as they perform their rituals and speak in a language known only to them.
This collection started off as a series of sketches and finally culminated in a series of experiments with jacquard fabrics. Hand-sewn dresses and hi-tech fabrics combined to produce a wonderfully natural collection, filled with 1960s’ silhouettes (such as the twisty bikini tops, printed with natural psychedelic colors), and maxi dresses.
This is a glorious trip into the unknown from the talented Argentinean designer.
Ideology of men’s clothing brand by Louise Alkhanashvili is the consistent struggle against stereotypes imposed by society. ALKHANASHVILI’s designers abandon the accepted understanding of the classic men’s suit, reject industry standards, and give them an entirely new interpretation.
Her new collection ‘Make Him Listen to Himself’ is a rumination on people, personalities, identities and uniqueness. This is a story about a man who wants to look the same on the outside as he feels on the inside. No matter what people around him say. Despite the condemnation and censorship, he can tell the story of his life.
In Louise’s short movie, a young model dressed in simple constructed garments – almost futuristic in their grey and silvery hues – rides his skateboard alone through the dark city. His long grey coat flows on the wind as he rides, chilling his nude body underneath the fabric. This is a sobering and beautiful fantasy on one’s identity in a modern metropolis.
NS GAIA (India)
NS GAIA, represented by designer Sidharth Sinha, is a contemporary womenswear label based in New Delhi. The brand started its journey in 2013 with r&d on textiles and crafts from a remote village in Northeast India. Over the course of years, they have been able to contribute to the successful re-birth of the ancient Indian folk craft Dakmanda, a hand weaving embroidery technique of the Northeast Indian Garo tribe. Apart from exploring up-cycling and sustainable fabrics, their approach is “Less is more”, keeping in mind the environmental impact and continuously searching for unexplored crafts and techniques that they have often gone on to use in their collections. As a brand, they believe in conscious fashion. They try their best to use sustainable hand-woven textiles blended with mill woven fabric in the hopes of producing a sustainable future for Indian fashion brands.
This new collection continues that line of thought, offering an artistic interpretation of chaos in modern fashion, in a world without religious or class divisions. While working on the collection, the designer used recycling, restoration of nylons with the Econyl technology, hand painting, second-hand garments disassembled into separate elements, and upcycled industrial waste. Multi-layered looks in a true Indian fusion style created a sense of constant movement and motion. Hand-crimped and layered garments in a wild variety of styles and patterns created the needed “chaotic” effect the designer went for.
Fernand Clarke ‘Sudarinya_render’
A professional motion designer and CG-artist, Fernand worked in various design studios in Moscow; participated in the design of the show ‘Circle of Light’ in 2017 for LBL and led the production of CG-sets for musical productions on the stage of the Bolshoi Theater. In addition, he oversaw advertising projects for several major brands: MTS, Tele2, Beeline, PepsiCo, Bayer, and many others. About his new work:
“I am a mistress born with a raytrace, my dress is full of bright pixels travelling along lines and wires from one coast to another. Everywhere I am good and wily, on any medium my laugh is youthful and beautiful, it flows from the light of your screen into a wavy bloom. Look at me, an ever-young and genial femme, counted with a red shift and uploaded to a file hosting service!” This is the speech of Fernand’s own creation, ‘Sudarinya,’ a wealthy mistress of a household in Russian, rendered in 3D and spinning on a virtual podium. Draped in levitating floating Slavic-pattern fabrics and a plastic transparent cybernetic cape, the ‘Sudarinya’ is a cyberpunk vision of a future model.
Marina Anokhina’s AMARIN jewelry is a young jewelry brand that does not pursue momentary trends, but tells stories through exquisite and functional jewelry design. The brand has currently put out six collections. All items are hand-crafted and customized for every customer.
AMARIN jewelry brand's new collection continues the idea of personalizing one’s accessories. For example, in the CORK collection, the designer utilized wine corks instead of precious stones. These can be swapped out to a cork that would remind one of a fantastic evening.
The inspiration for the creation of the M1 jewelry collection were mechanical inventions – gears, bolts and nuts. The collection retains not only the external features of metal parts, but also their moveable, mechanical properties.
The FOLK collection is a modern interpretation of the classic Russian style. Tales and myths, and heroic stories – this is what lies at the basis of this particular part of Anokhina’s work. The prototypes for the elements of the collection were a medieval mace, a shield, and a cartwheel. These items are a combination of ideas – ethnic style, traditional painting and modern jewelry technology. Collection's looks were digitized by graphic designer Bayyat Akerov.
Viviano Sue is based in Tokyo, Japan. After graduating with a Master’s degree in Fashion from the famed Bunka Fashion Graduate University, he decided to pursue his passion for design and built his brand in 2015. His work draws upon Eastern and Western cultures as a source of inspiration and infuses various culture- specific elements in his choice of shapes, colors, and textiles used in his creation. With an eye for detail, structure and fit, he takes cues from minute details and subtexts in nature, and uses them as the building blocks of creating new shapes, prints, and forms in designs.
His new Fall/Winter 2020 collection ‘Conversion’ is all about a turning point on the way to changing his brand name, its new life. It was created under the inspiration of the painting ‘Conversion of St. Paul’ by Nicolas Bernard Lépicié. The painting itself tells about the transition of Paul into the new faith and a fundamental change in his future life, while the collection creates a romantic atmosphere, immersing the audience in the picturesque world of bright colors and feminine silhouettes.
Creative suits – silhouettes in metallic greys, whites and blacks – and coats of blue faux fur give way to vast and free-flowing, romantic red, pink and blue dresses of layered and crimped tulle, along with wispy nightgowns adorned with fabric flowers. This is a meditative transition in silk and thread.
Aliona Pole, a well-known Russian digital model that made her first appearance at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia in April, has presented her collection ROONO (meaning ‘Fleece’. In the center of this collection, is the mythical Golden Fleece, symbolizing victory over the super-intelligent. The designer wanted to demonstrate connections between very different things, from ordinary people to absolutely diverse realities.This is why she chose virtual models without any specific features for the show. Looks of the collection are quite loose, featuring transparent fabrics with holographic prints, long capes, and dresses cut on the sides in black, scarlet, and light grey. Almost every look features pieces of code, referring to the MALIVAR team that works on the technology to facilitate trying on of every look from this collection with virtual means.
Anciela is a womenswear label that celebrates Colombian culture and experimental tailoring. The brand believes in creating light-hearted clothing both functional and fun to encourage women to mix bold colors and dynamic silhouettes.
Founded by Jennifer Droguett Espinosa in 2019, the brand produces every garment in London, reducing the environmental impact, ensuring good labor standards and delivering beautifully hand-crafted designs that are friendly to our planet. Anciela has a mindful approach towards designing fashion with sustainability as a starting point.
When creating the new collection, the designer thought a lot about one of the most contrasting cities in the world – Medellin, where she comes from. In her collection, Jennifer talks about the social changes in urban slums that occurred as a result of the civil war, the confrontation of the drug lords, and the forced relocation of citizens. Ortiz, the architect who developed the new city development plan, called this time “a period of absolute crisis and a moment of hope.” The transformation of urban spaces and the restructuring of the city united people. The collection is the author’s tribute to people who suffered from violence in connection with the drug business, to those who had to abandon their homes. Conceptual garments that look like a voluminous set of pockets with large metal zippers do not only form peculiar silhouettes, but also make viewers think: if you can only carry away what is on you right now, what things will you choose? It would be great to bring along a piece of my native land and at least some memories of the house, right? The composition contains the valley itself, mountains, and local houses: they can be found in the weaved fabrics and prints, in folds of mesh fabric on raincoats folded like origami, resembling the seasons of the year. Each item in the collection is handmade, presenting unique silhouettes in the truest sense of the word. Every detail symbolizes some part of the rebuilt slums.
From the very beginning of its existence, the brand has supported the tradition of sustainable fashion. Jennifer Droguette uses her own jacquard based on NewLife yarn made from recycled ocean plastic (these works are supported by textile designer Alice Timmis). Each season, the designer uses fabrics from past projects and unsold leftover textiles. Natural materials are used for decoration – for example, buttons from coconut and bone palm. In the new collection, the designer wants to talk about transformation, updating and successful search for happiness. The brand’s main task is to change the world’s ideas about Colombia and show its beauty and positive side.
DANIIL KOSTYSHIN is a high-tech and multi-functional clothing brand that prides itself on creating garments without gender. The philosophy of everything in the brand’s collections is built around three generalized concepts – freedom, equality, and unity.
As for his new collection, we saw an abstract virtual presentation, sent to us alongside Mamoru Oshii’s classics, ‘Ghost in the Shell.’
“At the moment, humanity is in the era of computers and machines, and the speed with which technologies are developing is even hard to realize. It is amazing, and against this background, people are beginning to deplete resources that have always been, these are the resources of planet Earth, but it is extremely important to understand and realize that these resources are not unlimited. Cyberpunk describes the anti- utopian world of the future, in which technology has long enslaved people, and nature is completely dead,” this is how Daniel describes his new collection, an assortment of futuristic coats, catsuits, masks, puffer jackets and vests – all classically cyberpunk, sporting infra-red patterns of microchips and contact algorithms. Collection's looks were digitized by a digital artistic team from ЯZAT and graphic designer Bayyat Akerov.
Också, established in Barcelona, has crossed parallels and meridians, which divide the world into imaginary lines, to settle, seek inspiration and explore their own aspirations. Designer Igor Bastos Crivellaro named the brand after a word of Swedish origin, meaning "Sum", the ideal meaning for the label that seeks to integrate constantly to artistic movements that surround us. Också seeks to develop and consolidate lifestyle for multifaceted individuals, free from prejudgments of gender. Seeking to instigate one’s potential, the ability to be the person you want to be, choosing how you relate, how you see, and how you experience. The label was officially launched in 2013, showcasing at Fashion Rio, after receiving the 19 th Prêmio Rio Moda Hype. His new collection ‘Reflections, Reflexes and Distorted Reality’ (REFLEXOS, REFLEXÕES E REALIDADE DISTORCIDA) reflects the duality of the world: its real and imaginary sides. We look at the world from different angles, and it is becoming increasingly difficult to distinguish its physical manifestations from imaginary ones. We are affected by everything that surrounds us: culture, society, our attachments, work, politics, and so on. But most of all, we are affected by people working with technology, as well as the online community. Recently, they have been gaining more and more power, and their voice is getting louder. This force, no matter how significant and useful it may seem, can have consequences: we are faced with a distorted reality. On the other hand, we are obsessed with our image, we want it to reflect our personality, cultural traditions, try to comply with the standards imposed by the society, and quietly become hostages of our reflection in the mirror, we cease to notice how it affects our surroundings.
In the new collection the designer uses various shades of white, sometimes complementing them with silver elements. The garments themselves are minimalistic and timeless – robes of pure white or cream fabric, star-white button-up coats with high collars, dresses tied with simple cloth belts. Crivellaro accessorized the looks with designs created in collaboration with a Brazilian jewelry-designer Letizia Tolentino. From time to time, he draws the attention of the audience to a new reading of classic models, for example, by changing their silhouettes. In this collection, he used various materials: knitwear, jeans, viscose, polyamide, linen and vinyl materials – they are used in unique jackets and bags. Shoes for the collection were developed in collaboration with a Brazilian brand NUU Shoes.
BAYARTAEV (created by Alexander Bayartaev in 2019) creates modern urban uniforms for a nomadic tribe. His brand combines simplicity and minimalism with constant unusual elements of deconstruction. This makes BAYARTAEV garments functional, versatile and not tied to fleeting trends.
His new collection, titled ‘File: Save Us: Mise En Abyme’ takes inspiration from the concept of things in themselves, recursive inversion, nesting, cocooning, dreaming within a dream, the “Save as” button, forced digitization, isolation, “placement into the abyss,” technological supervision, and freedom.
“The Great Quarantine facilitates digital dictatorship. This is a message into the open space of the Internet: digitize (save yourself) or you will be erased,” this is the comment the designer attached to the collection. The collection consisted of minimalist jackets, kimono pants and sweatshirts, Japanese-influenced black and white garments, as well as tailored black dress jackets and dresses, all featuring intriguing futuristic patterning and abstract tailoring on the lapels, which gave the whole thing a beautifully Asiatic look.
Prints such as the famed Windows 95 field wallpaper also made an appearance.
FEMME DE MARS (Belgium)
Are women only from Venus? Or is this a cliché of modern society? Femme de Mars tells a story of women aware of their power, no matter which culture or society they come from. They come from a planet that represents strength, courage, passion, energy, drive, and determination. They are fighters and lovers at the same time. Their instincts seldom let them down. We believe that genuine confidence is already present in every single woman. Femme de Mars encourages natural confidence, modern femininity, and power dressing.
This new collection by the graduates of Domus Academy Milano was created under the inspiration of the works by Gordon Matta-Clark (his “architectural splitting” marked the beginning of the “Anarchitecture” movement: by transforming abandoned buildings and cutting openings in their structures, Matta-Clark seemed to make their very space move). His rebellion and unusual constructive language, combined with the decline and dilapidated city buildings, became the basis of this collection by the Belgian brand. Silhouettes and the color palette characteristic of landscapes of an ordinary suburban city symbolize the unwritten laws of the modern world. In terms of style, we saw deconstructed looks of pure white, crimson and neon-yellow, all with jewel-encrusted face masks and free-form silhouetting.
Not for sale
Not for sale is an emerging Russian brand with several collections and capsule drops under its belt. The brand’s designer Natasha Skribo, who launched her brand in 2019, tries not to focus on seasonality and trends in order to make functional clothes that are characterized by clean cut lines, simple silhouettes, and moderately saturated colors.
Her new collection includes a classic oversized trench coat, a voluminous eco-leather cloak, a geometric linen dress, a fitted jacket with wide shoulders, and over a dozen other full looks.
The neutral color scheme is broken up by flashes of bright fuchsia, yellow and light green. The calm and measured urban style of the collection shows that everything is subordinate to functionality within this brand's philosophy – there has never been an abundance of details. On the contrary, Skribo’s clothing is characterized by moderate minimalism, asymmetry and a slight casual style of it all. Accessorized with simple yet playful aquamarine neckerchiefs, white bucket hats, neon-yellow sunglasses and nothing but casual “dress-like-a-French-girl” charm, this was a beautifully simple, yet crafty collection.
LINUS LEONARDSSON (UK)
Hailing from Stockholm but currently based in London, Leonardsson is a Master graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. His work centers around the combination of fun and glamour with important social issues – first and foremost, demolition of gender expectations within fashion, and a push towards a fully sustainable industry. The core purpose of his collections is to create a feast and fantasy for the eyes that are relating and impacting the world we live in.
LINUS LEONARDSSON exclusively utilizes restored materials and tissue residues in his work, which guarantee low-level environmental pollution.
At the heart of his ‘Rave New World Collection’ are questions about traditional conventionalism in the context of luxury and elitism. The name is a reference to A. Huxley’s ‘Brave New World,’ which tells the story of an anti-utopian society with an established social hierarchy and traditions. In principle, the world described by Huxley is not so different from the modern society and the radical division existing in it. The collection raises issues of existing norms, presenting to the viewer the scenery in which the doors to secluded corners of the society swing open under the onslaught of opposing forces. Modern teens break into the world of cozy picnics in the garden and private clubs to turn it over. In this collection, a new ambitious generation calls for social responsibility.
Using bold printing, the 70s’ influence and an overall atmosphere of a party at the end of the world, the designer weaves together a beautiful chronicle of the last disco on Earth – all ABBA dresses and hysteric glamour.
Timo Helgert ‘The Return Of Nature’ (Germany)
Timo Helgert is a creative director from Germany specializing in the study of Augmented Reality through his art. His recent series, The Return of Nature, is a message of hope to everyone who has been affected by the COVID-19 virus. Instead of creating only fear, as mainstream media often does, Timo did the opposite, focusing on beauty in the simple things, on appreciating nature and creating hope even in difficult times. His works reinterpret famous sights, for example, Shibuya, a famed area of Tokyo, as if finally brought into balance with nature.
The Return of Nature is a yet-unfinished new project of Helgert, representing the sights familiar to the viewer in an unusual form. In his works, nature returns to the most famous and popular places: daisies bloom in the shopping gallery of Victor Emanuel II, butterflies flutter in a New York subway car. Helgert, a well-known digital artist, is trying to imagine how some cities would have changed as a result of the COVID-19 epidemic. The artist showcases many of his works on Instagram under the nickname VACADES. The project launched during quarantine gained 2 million views in just 2 days.
This conceptual brand of knitwear by designer Ekaterina Tsareva creates limited collections addressed to those who see the world in their own way and want to add brightness to their everyday life. Each capsule collection is a unique, iconic, shocking, bright and characteristic event.
There is geometry, complex color combinations, experiments with textures and silhouettes. In her new autumn-winter collection, Tsareva immerses us in an interesting and eventful world, paradoxically combining comfort and originality.
Combinations of various geometric ornaments and their other sides, various color schemes, reckless and redundant, ultra-short miniskirts, neo-romantic garments, an enlarged shoulder line, godet skirts, ornaments and cosmic motifs hail that from the 70s. All this convincingly adjoins each other in one common thing statements in the new autumn-winter collection by RABBITHOLE.
The future has come. Today's conditions dictate new rules. The digital reality came to us before we were ready for it.
Under the quarantine, the RABBITHOLE concept brand has prepared a virtual showcase of the 20/21 Fall-Winter collection. A virtual 3D model and a virtual podium, complete with onlookers and developed by the brand team were used for the show.