This season’s muse is a Glam-ma who generously keeps her wardrobe open to her granddaughter. With excitement, she allows her to try on and reinvent her most iconic outfits. So the girl plays with her 60s ensembles, a reminder of the days Glam-ma strutted the streets of London with her Mod Squad, draped in elegant rebellion. And with her whimsical 70s looks with a kaleidoscope of pop patterns and intense hues, plus a touch of floral romanticism. In the effervescent domestic bliss of Granny’s home, the fashionable granddaughter creates new looks for herself, modernising with a cool sense of nostalgia and an ironic twist on old fashioned dress codes. Meanwhile cult movies like Belle de Jour and The Discreet Charm of the Bourgeoisie by Luis Buñuel and Jeanne Dielman, the 1975 film directed by Chantal Akerman are also key inspirations to the mood of the collection.
With these images in mind, the Sportmax Resort 2022 is an endearing study of this nostalgic sentiment and conservative style.
Dresses that embrace the free feminine figure, in mini and midi lengths and extra-long trousers tailored to cover the shoe or caress the ankle, serve as the starting point. Sophisticated and sensual looks are accentuated, at times, with volumes executed with architected precision. From check patterns to florals, ensembles are awash with fresh colors for a carefree style that is truly endearing.
Textures are researched, while patterns are re-elaborated with homely souvenirs collected in and around the coziness of Glam-ma’s vibrant household: from the kitsch simplicity of her retro floral curtains to her upbeat jacquard throw rugs. A palette of soft green, mint tones, mimosa yellow, baby blue and light pink, combined with leathery earth tones, punctuated with striking shades of blue and black convey a vivacious dialogue of color.
An array of leather looks punctuate the overall mood, like the tailored in typical 1960s savvy style re-worked into a jacket with a boxy silhouette, a statement brick-colored trench fashioned with a wide rever or a sleek longuette tube skirt.
Accessories play a central role: leather bandanas, stark white sunglasses and gloves surprisingly fashioned in the image of those made for dishwashing, infuse the collection with a sense of spontaneity. Bags made with a bourgeoise flair are crafted to be worn over the shoulder or across the body. Footwear completes standout looks. Plain or two-tone patent-leather slingbacks with a bold heel, as well as a contemporary take on the classic moccasin outfitted with a thick sole, propel the collection into the 21st century.