As in the spring-summer 2020 fashion show, Nicolas Ghesquière bet on a sleek set. The twist this season? It reproduced a large theater scene where the guests were the characters of that moment. Mystery reigns, while in the gallery, the past manifests itself. In the stands, the present. And on the podium, a near future ... Significant detail: as during the last show, a rented glass structure covered the decor made of wood and Valchromat certified 100% PEFC and from sustainably managed forests in France. All of the wooden decor elements will be given for reuse to different associations in France.
Historical costumes like Stanley Kubrick
While the clash of time was doing its work on the podium, the tribune was made up of 200 historical characters whose costumes were created specially for the occasion by Milena Canonero , costume designer for Stanley Kubrick , who worked on Orange Mécanique , Barry Lyndon and Shining . These 200 characters ranged from the 15th century to 1950. Then there is the music. Composed by Woodkid and Bryce Dessner , they were themselves responsible for working on this clash of times. The piece is called "Three hundred and twenty", the number of years between the different movements that are references in this baroque music in which he injected a minimalist and repetitive music. They unearthed Nicolas de Grigny , contemporary composer of Bach , who was not recognized by his peers and who was never able to play at the Louvre. For this Louis Vuitton show, centuries later, at last, he was able to perform.
Anachronism as a watchword
" The notion of time is paramount in fashion. I wanted eras to be able to look at another, ours. All these pasts, embodied by this platform of characters in historical costumes are at the same time present as us. " It is with these words that Nicolas Ghesquière describes the inspiration behind this collection. By mixing eras, making strange associations, assuming diversions, going from the old to the new and the new to the heritage, the designer wanted to make anachronism an attitude, inviting women to dress without protocol . A way of emphasizing the personality of each one with as a result, "clothing tuning" and anti-total looks.
On the accessories side, Nicolas Ghesquière reinvents the Keepall , pure, old with its beautiful patina that it takes over time, customized for the occasion with a new strap. There were also small satchels, mini-tote bags and strange shrouded minaudières. The shoes also illustrate a fairly free field: the boots are revisited, while the pumps with metallic toes are considered as rims of "tuned" cars.
The star front row
Florence Pugh , Alicia Vikander , Léa Seydoux , Emma Chamberlain … All of the Maison Vuitton ambassadors met at the front row of the show.